The Best Vitamin C Serums, According To Dermatologists

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As a child, my parents encouraged me to drink my orange juice to make sure I was getting enough vitamin C to keep my immune system strong. As an adult, TikTok skinfluencers are encouraging me to put it on my face. 

They say vitamin C serum can help you achieve a glowing complexion, so I had to ask the experts how vitamin C might benefit my skin. 

What are the benefits of vitamin C in skincare?

“Vitamin C is an incredible multitasker,” Dr. Geeta Yadav, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Facet Dermatology, told BuzzFeed News via email. “It’s a potent antioxidant, so it defends skin from free radical damage; it promotes healthier collagen for firmer, smoother skin with less noticeable pores; and it’s a tyrosinase inhibitor, which means that it helps inhibit the formation of discoloration, leading to brighter, more even skin.” 

Tyrosinase is an enzyme that contributes to melanin synthesis, a cause of dark spot formation, which is why inhibiting it will help address discoloration and uneven skin tone, said Dr. Julia Tzu, a founder and director of Wall Street Dermatology. And since vitamin C contributes to collagen synthesis, it can also play an important role in skin healing.

Board-certified cosmetic and general dermatologist Dr. Annie Chiu added that evidence-based studies have shown active forms of topical vitamin C do improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots.

Is topical vitamin C safe for your skin?

“Vitamin C is considered safe for all adults, and one of my most recommended skincare ingredients, even during pregnancy,” Chiu said via email. “If you have allergies, you should always patch test any skincare product. Easily flushed, rosacea-prone, or sensitive skin can sometimes be irritated by high percentages of very active forms of vitamin C like L-ascorbic acid.”

Tzu and Yadav agreed that higher concentrations of vitamin C have the potential to irritate very sensitive skin, and would also recommend patch-testing on a small area before full-face application in those cases. 

It’s important to note that not all types of vitamin C used in skincare are the same. The most common is ascorbic acid, which is also the most potent. Another popular form is sodium ascorbyl phosphate, said Chiu. Also called encapsulated vitamin C, this may actually be better for those with sensitive skin given that it converts to ascorbic acid within the skin, making it weaker but also gentler.

What to look for in a vitamin C serum

Ascorbic acid is the pure and active form of vitamin C and also the most researched and demonstrated to offer results, Yadav said. Therefore, Chiu said, the most potent formulations on the market will contain ascorbic acid as the active ingredient in a strength of 10% to 20% with a pH lower than 3.5.

However, it’s also a more unstable form, so it does best in a base (like a serum) combined with other antioxidants like ferulic acid and vitamin E — additional antioxidants that help protect the activity and potency of vitamin C, keep it stable, and prevent it from oxidizing. 

Other common and acceptable forms include ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate, which has better shelf stability and skin penetration, and tetrahexyldecyl (or THD ascorbate), which is a stable fat-soluble ester of vitamin C with low potential for irritation, according to Chiu. You may see vitamin C in oils, moisturizers, or cleansers, though she said it will come in lower levels that make it less effective than a serum.

All three experts said that a serum is the best vehicle for applying vitamin C to the skin due to its potential for higher concentrations, stabilizing properties, and tolerability across skin types. Tzu believes that serums are also popular because they’re so versatile; you can wear them day or night, they’re lightweight, and they absorb easily without a greasy feel.

So without further ado, these are the best dermatologist-approved vitamin C serums.